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Old 06-18-2021, 04:04 PM
jabberjaw jabberjaw is offline
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 2
Default Cavitation issues 23 classic

I have a 2003 23 classic that originally had a single 250 Yamaha on it. Repowered with Suzuki 175s this past December. Currently at 180 hours. The performance with the new motors is great. The only issue is on rough days or backing off on a swell coming into the inlet I have found the boat to want to Cavitate. Once the motors get a good bite they run great. Currently cruising 4000rpm at 27knt burning 12gph and WOT just shy of 6000rpms at 41knt. The motor is set on the second hole down. The props on the boat are 3x16x21.5 Suzuki props. The marina is saying to drop the motors all the way down but it seems majority of regulators are set on the second hole down. Wondering if anyone has a similar setup and what hole they are set in or what props they are running. The boat runs amazing 99% of the time. Just the getting up part on rougher seas is the issue. Any suggestions appreciated
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Old 06-19-2021, 10:12 PM
Rich53 Rich53 is offline
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 309

Regulator tends to run their boats with the motors all the way down, sometimes performance, especially with 4 blades can be improved going one up. But two up is pretty high compared to where most of the regulators run. My experience is with the bracket boats, so don’t know if it is different on-a non bracket boat, but the hulls do run deep with the 24 degree dead rise.
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Old 09-04-2021, 04:50 PM
Kilgore Kilgore is offline
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 118

Need to let the motors tell you where they want to be. I had cavitation issues after repowering from single to twins like you. Here is what I would try.

1. If you want to know if your motors are at the right height, turn your boat hard over on a plane. If the RPMs rise or blow out, it is the right height.

2. Once height is set, time to let the motors tell you where they want to be. Measure the tie bar mount points distance as it is right now. Next, get out on the water, use 2 people for this. On open water on a calm day, disconnect the tie bar between motors. Get up on a plane (don’t make any hard over helm orders, want to avoid the motors touching, will scuff your paint if you do). Go back to your engines and measure the distance between the motors tie bar mount points. I did this by comparing the tie bar spacer tube to where the motors were once we were on plane.

In my case I cut about 1/4” off the tie bar spacer. The boat went from getting on a plane slow with lots of cavitation to ROCKETING onto a plane. If you want more info PM me and we can talk more on the phone. This has been covered on THT as well so search there for more.
“Rougarou” -2002 Regulator 23 150 Hondas
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Old 09-06-2021, 08:19 AM
rjtfd rjtfd is offline
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Staten Island
Posts: 215

I had 2004 w/F150’s. Original props were 14x19 and mine would do the same if it was rough or a flowing sea. I moved my motors up one hole from lowest and changed out my props to enertia 14.5x 17 and it was a new boat. Never cavitated again and everything improved. Reach out to Ken@propgods. He helped me out.
2000 232 Gradywhite Gulfstream
Twin 150 HPDI'S (Lost to Sandy)

"Doubled Up"
2004 23 Classic
Twin F150's (sold)
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23 classic, cavitation, props, suzuki

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