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  #1  
Old 05-29-2020, 03:53 PM
danedecks danedecks is offline
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Location: Deerfield Beach, FL
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Default 23 Classic Reg Overhaul

Have a 1994 23 Classic that we have had for over 10 years, previous owner added the armstrong bracket that looked solid at the time of purchase but over the years it started pulling the transom from the stringers. We knew it was a ticking time bomb and finally last Nov decided to start the rebuild. The plan from the beginning was to close in the transom from the inside re-enforce and add the same bracket back on, rewire the the entire boat, re-core the rotten gas tank hatch, pull the gas tank, re-core the T-top and any other rotten wood we came across, re paint and nonskid, then finally re-power. Have done all the work my self with the occasional help of a couple friends, one of which has gutted and rebuilt a few boats in the past and been giving guidance. No one seems to show up when it's time to put on the suit and start grinding.
Had a rough idea of the budget and timeline when I got started, lets just say i'll probably double both of those in the end. Did plenty of research on materials and methods, ended up going with FGCI 2:1 epoxy, 1708, and Coosa (kay-cel was FGCI brand) for majority of the repairs.

Started off by pulling and selling the twin ox66 150's, then began pulling all the wire and the gas tank. Had a plan for how I was going to cut out the deck in the back and transom core from the inside. Along with removing the battery boxes with no plans to add them back in.
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  #2  
Old 05-29-2020, 04:43 PM
danedecks danedecks is offline
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Removing the bracket was not an easy task, took some backyard engineering, the 5200 could have supported the weight of the motors on its own. Cut out the the splash well floor, inner bilge liner, sections of the stringers, battery boxes and inner skin and core of the transom. Surprised to see the transom core was closed cell foam and still solid considering how many holes had been put in the transom over the years.
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  #3  
Old 05-29-2020, 05:01 PM
danedecks danedecks is offline
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Owner before me me had the tank out at some point and cut acess holes in the tank hatch liner. Was not sure why that was done, so I cut the same sections back out to see, come to find they had tabbed the insides of the stringers, live-well and forward boxes down to the hull. Almost all of the added tabbing was delaminated from the hull. Pulled out the old repair and proceed to add the same thing back in but using epoxy opposed to poly and grinding and cleaning really well hopefully mine lasts.
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  #4  
Old 05-29-2020, 05:19 PM
danedecks danedecks is offline
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For filling in the transom cut out, mounted a melamine board with release wax the outside to glass up to. Then 8 layers of 1708 gradually getting bigger in size and overlap of original skin to fill it in, then 2 layers over the entire transom skin tabbing to the sides and floor about 6in.
Made a template, then cut and glued with thickened epoxy 2 x 1in coosa board together and glued that using 2x4 and thru bolts for clamping force to the inside of the transom.
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  #5  
Old 05-29-2020, 05:45 PM
danedecks danedecks is offline
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Added 7 layers total to create the inside skin (5 layers 1708, 2 layers 24oz WR). Then built some over sized knees (intending to use them as additional floor support) also glued the sections of stringer that was removed also refilling them with 4lb foam. Adding multiple layers of 1708 to the stringers, knees and bilge floor to tie everything back together. After lots of sanding, finished off with SW tile clad 2 part epoxy paint.

Pretty much where I am on the project at this point. Know I have left out a lot of the details, will be sure to keep adding as I make progress.
Feel free to give feedback or questions. I have researched so many forums for ideas on how to tackle a project like this, wanted to give back. It's funny I can't find many transom rebuilds on Regulators online, ended up looking at how it was done on Seacraft, Aqua sports, Grady etc. Think it's because the Reg is built so damn tough.
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  #6  
Old 05-29-2020, 08:38 PM
bluefinblues bluefinblues is offline
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This is an awesome project and looks great! Thanks for sharing. Are you building a live well into the transom like the 26's have?
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  #7  
Old 05-31-2020, 11:26 PM
Big Tease Big Tease is offline
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Can’t wait to see more. Great job so far!

Question:
How did the 23 classic ride with a bracket?
Do you think the bracket is what caused the stringers to delaminate from the transom?
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  #8  
Old 06-01-2020, 09:27 AM
danedecks danedecks is offline
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Thanks for the positive feedback!
Thought about the possibility of adding the transom live well, but the amount of additional glass work and adding weight to the back. I didn't think it was worth it. Besides I don't mind the live well in the floor, in process of re plumbing the floor well with larger 3/4" inlet and 1 1/4" overflow at the top of the well (which should be about 1 1/2" above the water line and prevent back flow), eliminating the float switch and pump. I'll post pictures when the thru hulls are mocked up.

Since we never rode in the boat without the bracket it's hard to do a direct comparison. But when we first purchased we had our mechanic look it over and sea trial, he was impressed on how the boat jumped out of the water on to plane so quick. Could have been the 2 strokes or the bracket or the combo not sure.
We scuba dive about as much as we fish and having the bracket as a platform has been great. Also the amount of added space in the back is a big plus, removing the battery boxes for the rebuild will be even better. Only down fall was on a drift always had to be cautious of wave direction, anything that washed across the bracket usually ended up in splash well. Trolling we stayed dry in any sea.
Did the bracket cause the failure of the transom, yes. Added moment caused the transom to separate from the liner (which has knees built in) also the stringers which are only glued (not tabbed on the outside) to to transom. The failure was a very slow progression, how long it would of lasted until total failure who knows, but I didn't want to find out.

The boat had a great ride with the bracket and we loved the benefits of the extra space. Now that the transom is beefed up with plenty of tabbing to hull sides and floor, with the enclosed the cutout, we are confident adding the bracket back in to gain the benefits.

Did post here a few years back when started to notice the bracket causing issues.
http://www.redregulator.com/forum/sh...hlight=bracket
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  #9  
Old 08-28-2020, 10:11 AM
danedecks danedecks is offline
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Been going slow but still making progress. Gas tank hatch core was completely rotten. Grinded out the old core, added in a layer of 1708 then glued in new core with multiple layers of 1708 on the bottom side. Additionally added core to the section under the center console (which was only solid glass originally) for support for batteries and mounting.
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  #10  
Old 08-28-2020, 10:39 AM
danedecks danedecks is offline
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New gas tank was purchased from sunshine marine in Miami, really impressed with the outcome and customer service from them. Went with the heavier gauge aluminum (3/16 vs original 1/8) which was recommend by sunshine for anything over 120 gal. Tank was built to original size for total of 160 gal. Also had them add the coal tar epoxy coating.
Wad on the fence about the method for installing the tank using Pascoe method to allow air or pour foam and glass over the top to seal it all up. Talked to Al at Regulator, his opinion was they have tried all methods and foam was the only way to ensure no movement. So I supported the tank 1/2in off the hull and poured 4lb density foam all around, then scuffed up the tank coating and added 1708 strips over the tank to the bulkheads/stringers. Pitched everything to where water on top of the tank would run out a pvc drain in the back. Then coated the new glass with the same epoxy paint used for the bilge in attempt to keep everything clean (not in photo). Hatch was set in to test for pie plate access.
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