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  #21  
Old 04-13-2018, 09:38 PM
GoDaddy GoDaddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 26fsCapeCod View Post
Try using 3M's buffing system, it works great and is setup in steps. Get the heavy cut step one, light cut + wax step 2, and finish with as many coats of wax as you can for step 3. Make sure you get the recommended buffing wheels it makes a huge difference in how the product is applied.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEU6MbK_Jcs
I have used the 3M products for several years and they work really well. I also have the dark blue hull. I used the perfect-it heavy duty gelcoat last summer to rehab the oxidized hull.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1...f-products.pdf

This link above shows the process of refinishing with 3M products. Definitely agree with the as many coats of was as possible. The more coats of wax protect all your work in compounding.
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  #22  
Old 04-16-2018, 08:22 PM
Dualie Dualie is offline
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Thanks guys!
The part I struggle with is the difference between the lettering and the remaining topside that is exposed.

For example. when I peeled off the white vinyl lettering I saw the "real" color f what the hull used to look like. The remaining was oxidized. I got it to blend, just ok and from a distance you had to look for it, but close up it was still there.

If it were just bad oxidization all the way around I could make it work but bc the original is present and such a vast difference is present. Your suggested products looks great and wish i used them, last year although i guess I could still try.

here's a recent pic, dumb iphone always dumps it upside down. but you get the gist.

I am pursuing Interlux Perfection 2 part as the color, Interlux Epoxy Prime Kote primer. Tipping amd rolling method.

Testing on my dinghy first, then if I see success, hitting the big boat.
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Last edited by Dualie; 04-16-2018 at 08:25 PM.
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  #23  
Old 04-17-2018, 11:10 PM
Collin4350 Collin4350 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 26fsCapeCod View Post
Try using 3M's buffing system, it works great and is setup in steps. Get the heavy cut step one, light cut + wax step 2, and finish with as many coats of wax as you can for step 3. Make sure you get the recommended buffing wheels it makes a huge difference in how the product is applied.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEU6MbK_Jcs
Agreed the correct pads make a big difference. also using a makita variable speed polisher is imperative as you can control every aspect of speed, angle and pressure put into the machine. I think you're hull is very salvageable, you just really have to put the time in. You'll almost never be 100% satisfied with a roll and tip method without going for a final sand, clear etc.
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  #24  
Old 04-24-2018, 09:13 AM
Dualie Dualie is offline
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Thanks guys for the encouragement. I am taking on risk of painting it. Interlux Perfection.

I am going to use this forum as a place to document my process. Let me know if I should move the post elsewhere in the forum.

Project begins Saturday.

My expectation is two full weekends weather permitting - key is timing for humidity & temp for painting.

My current tally is $643.00 for all materials, respirator filters, tape, sand paper different grits 220,320,400 and to the closed cell foam rollers and China bristle brushes and material for paint, Reducer, epoxy filler. I can list out everything if ppl want to know.

We are looking at 3 quarts of Interlux Perfection- they don't sell by the gallon -Mauritius Blue

1 Gallon Interlux Epoxy PrimeKote primer - adding my dinghy to the job for testing the rolling and tipping.
Covers - 450sq ft'.

That's it.
SB
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02 23 Regulator Yam 250

Last edited by Dualie; 05-29-2018 at 10:23 AM.
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  #25  
Old 04-26-2018, 09:41 PM
Dualie Dualie is offline
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Started this afternoon.
Removed all the decals, Reg numbers and pin stripes.
Washed the boat with Fiberglass Surface Prep - YMA601 and Scotch bright pad-Green. Learned that Green = 600 grit and colors mean something. Chart below.

Goal: Dewax the boat. When I start sanding I don't want to push the wax further into the gelcoat, so i have to hit with this stuff just once.

SCOTCHBRITE GRIT CHART

7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000)

7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800)

6448 - Green, called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600)

7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400)

6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320)

7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220)

7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150)
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  #26  
Old 04-29-2018, 10:29 PM
Dualie Dualie is offline
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Update:
Completed the Fiberglass surface prep with a 320 grit scotch pad. Scrubbed the topsides and rinsed. Removed all the wax build up.

Completed sanding at 120 grit & and hand sanded right below the rub rails and feathered down a couple on inches.
Using an 5” orbital sander with hook and loop attached to vacuum with a dry bag filter. That worked great, inhaled all the gelcoat particles abs hardly any dust around.
Wiped down entire sides with Interluz 202 solvent wash with fresh clean rags. Removed all residue.
Puttied any surface scratch with 3M filler, sanded with 220 by hand.
Wiped down again with Interliux 202.

FWIW, you can still the name on the boat. Ugh. Can’t wait to see it gone.

Ready for primer. Need warmer weather to advance.

Dualie

Last edited by Dualie; 04-30-2018 at 07:27 AM.
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  #27  
Old 05-22-2018, 01:43 PM
Dualie Dualie is offline
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update:
Was able to bottom paint and wash her down while we waited for warmer over night temps. Need more than 50 degrees to paint and cure. Must be applied in the shade.

Got a coat of primer on there. Took about 60-90 minutes to get it done as a first timer. Rolled only. Tipping not a necessary step here as long as there are no bubbles on the surface. The transom is a total PIA but the topsides were a breeze. Next round will be faster.

Did 3:1 mix and thinned 20-25% with 2333N and rolled it on.
Let it cure overnight.

Next is 120 grit sand, wipe er down.
Another round of primer, then 320 grit, wipe her down and 2 coats of paint. Looks like some solid weather ahead.

I was able to cut a few corners in the material list. For example didn't need a $18. box of scotchbrite pads box of 20. just needed 3. Things like that. Was able to drop the cost about $100.00. So far so good.
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File Type: jpg IMG_6369.jpg (95.4 KB, 44 views)
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  #28  
Old 05-25-2018, 10:47 PM
Dualie Dualie is offline
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This week we had excellent weather. Wiped down the topside with Interlux 2333N. This stuff evaporates slowly.
Once it dries, then it's time to prime.
Read the directions carefully and thin 20% appropriately with 2333N.

I found that tipping the primer was useless and rolling in on went on perfectly, no bubbles. Plus I had to sand it again anyway.

Once 1 coat is applied, its dry to touch in about 2 hours. Let it cure overnight and sand with 220 grit. Then blow off with a compressor, then wipe down with 2333N solvent to remove residue from sanding.

Prime again. Same methods.

Tape off again where needed.

Then ready for paint.
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File Type: jpg IMG_6377.jpg (99.0 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_6378.jpg (98.5 KB, 34 views)
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  #29  
Old 05-29-2018, 10:21 AM
Dualie Dualie is offline
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Update:
Last week- Pushed out our first coat of color with a quart of Intelux Perfection. Thinned to 7 %. With enough left over for an 8' pram.
Pot life is about 2-3 hours so you can't save any leftover material for the next day.

Used a china bristle 2.5 inch brush and a closed foam roller (7inch) on a stick.

Perfect temps 78 degrees and 60 % humidity. Went on nicely and tipped out nicely. No sagging, no flashing, but two areas went on too thick and I could see a line in the paint. It needed to be sanded down, also a little too breezy so a few bugs stuck to the paint. No worries bc it was the first coat and would be sanded off.

After it cured overnight, i sanded it with 320. wiped it down with Interlux 2333N. This stuff evaporates slowly and now it's prepped for the second coat.

Was hoping that the second coat would be it, but I knew there were some light spots from sanding the overly applied paint.
--
Second coat - thinned to 5%, applied after 4pm. overcast. temps were cooler - 58 degrees and humidity was 78%. But took the risk late in the day. DID NOT PAY OFF.

What happened was called "flashing", where the temps dipped and created condensation/ dew in the early morning hours, thus making parts of the painted surface dull looking. I read about this and it's true. lol.

Hoping to avoid a 3rd coat, but now I am into it again. Kissed it with 400 grit I didn't need to buy a box, just 4 singles. Perfection is $74.00 a quart.

Wipe it down with Interlux 2333N and READY.
Pick the next day in the early AM like I have been doing it, except the 2nd coat.

Weather looks great for tomorrow and Thurs.

Pics coming.
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Last edited by Dualie; 05-29-2018 at 11:16 AM.
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  #30  
Old 05-29-2018, 11:10 AM
Dualie Dualie is offline
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These are pics from the first coat and 1 pic from the 2nd coat with the dull surface from it flashing.

Interlux perfection is really glossy. You could see your reflection once it was tipped and still wet.

I am truly amazed at the finished product. The boat looks fantastic so far. What a difference.

Home stretch now and final coat to be applied in the proper conditions.

Graphics ordered, Regulator bootstripe & Decals have arrived.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_6385.jpg (96.6 KB, 47 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_6384.jpg (95.7 KB, 43 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_6388.jpg (91.4 KB, 40 views)
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Last edited by Dualie; 05-31-2018 at 02:24 PM.
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