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  #11  
Old 03-24-2018, 01:02 PM
Dualie Dualie is offline
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Aw that sucks to hear on the powder coat
Thanks for the confidence.
I might give it one more try on the wet sanding, but really my head space is ready to paint. I borrowed two guns from a buddy to spray but will research both options and cost/time. Will get some before pics soon.

Just need the snow banks to melt some to move the boat out of the boatyard and into my yard.
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  #12  
Old 03-26-2018, 07:37 AM
26fsCapeCod 26fsCapeCod is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dualie View Post
Aw that sucks to hear on the powder coat
Thanks for the confidence.
I might give it one more try on the wet sanding, but really my head space is ready to paint. I borrowed two guns from a buddy to spray but will research both options and cost/time. Will get some before pics soon.

Just need the snow banks to melt some to move the boat out of the boatyard and into my yard.
Even if you get one more season out of it I would say its worth it. Every time you make them perfect something happens or another boat cruises by with an upgrade you need. I would be very hesitant to paint but I only have limited experience in auto paint and its not a good experience so I may not be the most help there.
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  #13  
Old 03-26-2018, 08:59 AM
BlueChip BlueChip is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 26fsCapeCod View Post
Every time you make them perfect something happens or another boat cruises by with an upgrade you need.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 26fsCapeCod View Post
The things we do for our boats is hard to explain to normal folk

Yes so true!
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  #14  
Old 03-29-2018, 09:49 PM
Dualie Dualie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 26fsCapeCod View Post
Even if you get one more season out of it I would say its worth it. Every time you make them perfect something happens or another boat cruises by with an upgrade you need. I would be very hesitant to paint but I only have limited experience in auto paint and its not a good experience so I may not be the most help there.
HAHA. Agreed. Unfortunately, I have a few big ticket items that i want to do and quite frankly don't/ can't do them all this year.

I like to spread them out year over year if I can. Although, the past few years I have been pretty content with no upgrades and really just been using it every chance possible.

I will give it another go and target the worst area and see what i get.

SB
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  #15  
Old 04-01-2018, 07:26 PM
Collin4350 Collin4350 is offline
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My first reg 23 was a 99 with the classic dark blue hull and was SEVERELY oxidized. I tried buffing with 3m Imperial, aquabuff 1k and 2k and the results were not good. So I too was set on a respray but decided to give the hull a full sand with a DA as it couldn't hurt and if it turned out decent it was a major win.

I did a small test patch with 800 wet on a block and it came out well but not well enough to be satisfied. So I sent it...

I started with 400 grit (dry) auto net on a DA (dustless random sander on a festool vacuum) and proceeded with 500,600,800,1000,1200. A soft "intermediate" pad in between the sander and paper made it easy to go around the non-flush areas (upper bow).

After this i used aquabuff 2000 with some water added and went with two full passes. After the aquabuff I used 3 coats of 3m marine wax to seal the geloat.

Needless to say, it came out awesome and lasted easily through the summer so the $300 in sand paper and puffing compound was totally worth it.
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  #16  
Old 04-02-2018, 09:59 PM
Dualie Dualie is offline
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Wow. You went dry... That's about how I am feeling at the moment.
The challenge is the previous lettering is still present. Basically the original gelcoat. Over the years its gotten pretty bad but this is what I am dealing with.

This pic is 4 years ago. And i started to compound one section and when i hit the lettering i just couldn't blend it. Then I wet sanded the beans out of it, (800) but never hit it dry.

What does it look like today? Basically the same stupid .com name and everywhere else is oxidized, nothing is flag blue except the underside of the carolina flare near the mid line to the bow. That part shines up nicely with some 3M compound, 3MFinesse and a final hit of Collinite #845 by hand.
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  #17  
Old 04-03-2018, 07:53 AM
26fsCapeCod 26fsCapeCod is offline
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That is pretty severe. Since I am not a pro I can only suggest you call a pro in for some advice or even a quote. If he says he cant save it then forget about it but there are some miracle workers ive seen on youtube so my guess is that it not to far gone, good luck!
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  #18  
Old 04-03-2018, 08:58 AM
Collin4350 Collin4350 is offline
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After you wet sanded, what compound did you use and what kind of buffer? Finesse it is good but generally is just a swirl remover for VERY fine finishes. Wet sanding is only as good as the compound and wax you use afterwards. Wet sanding (or sanding in general) opens the pores of the gel coat which is where the oxidation comes from. If you don’t seal the pores properly it will oxidize very quickly
I would typically use aqua buff 2000, 3m imperial Compound (black bottle
Purple writing) and then a bunch of coats of 3m marine wax after a project like this. The more coats of wax the better.
With the aqua buff and imperial using a makita buffer with a black foam 3m buffing pad and wax by hand with micro rags.

I didn’t have a big logo likes yours but I did have the original vinyl regulator logo that had similar fading like yours. When I was done it was impossible to find.

I sold this boat over two years ago but it lasted through the time I had it (a few years). You just have to be liberal with the wax every year.

Last edited by Collin4350; 04-03-2018 at 09:06 AM.
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  #19  
Old 04-12-2018, 06:20 PM
Dualie Dualie is offline
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Thanks Collin for the tips.

I only did one section, the .com area, Wet sanded, then hit it with 3M Material Compound & finish material (purple) and a Dual Action buffer.
I got it to look pretty sweet from 8' back, then after about 2 months (it hangs on a mooring) I started to see it again and by the end of season, its back.

Honestly, i probably only did one coat of wax, post sanding/ buffing.
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  #20  
Old 04-13-2018, 09:19 AM
26fsCapeCod 26fsCapeCod is offline
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Try using 3M's buffing system, it works great and is setup in steps. Get the heavy cut step one, light cut + wax step 2, and finish with as many coats of wax as you can for step 3. Make sure you get the recommended buffing wheels it makes a huge difference in how the product is applied.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEU6MbK_Jcs
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